What to See in Portovenere, Italy – Travel Guide to Sights, Views, and Transport

On our last trip around Tuscany, we found ourselves with one free Saturday and decided to spend it in Cinque Terre, a place we had already visited before and loved enough to return to. Getting there from Pisa meant changing trains in La Spezia, and the trip took about an hour. When we arrived, we were surprised to see that weekend prices for Cinque Terre were much higher than the last time we had been there, and the ticket lines were enormous.

We took it as a sign and changed our plans. Instead of heading straight to Cinque Terre, we left the station and started walking around La Spezia with no real destination in mind. While strolling along the waterfront, we noticed a small queue for a tourist boat, mostly made up of locals. After asking where it was going, we learned that it was heading to Portovenere and would leave in just a few minutes. The boat ticket was much cheaper than the train ticket to Cinque Terre, and after a quick search we were already convinced that Portovenere was worth visiting.

Within minutes, we were on board and sailing toward one of the most beautiful corners of the Ligurian coast. The views along the rocky shoreline were stunning, and after about 20-30 minutes we arrived in Portovenere, Italy – a small coastal town that immediately won us over.

This guide will show you what to see in Portovenere, how to get there, and why this charming town near Cinque Terre deserves a place on your Italy itinerary. In our opinion, Portovenere is the perfect alternative to Cinque Terre in Liguria.

Here, you can find our guide to the best day trips from Pisa – Florence, Lucca, Cinque Terre, Portovenere and more.

Basic information about Portovenere

Portovenere is a small medieval town on the Ligurian coast of Italy, very close to Cinque Terre. Thanks to its strategic coastal position, the town was an important trade and defense center with a rich maritime history. It is included on the UNESCO list together with Cinque Terre and the nearby islands. It is also known as the Gulf of Poets – Byron and Shelley found inspiration here.

How to Get to Portovenere

From La Spezia to Portovenere, there are three main ways to get there:

• By bus – line 11 runs regularly from the center of La Spezia, near the train station, and the journey takes about 30-40 minutes. This is the most budget-friendly option.
• By boat/ferry – during the tourist season (spring to autumn), there are regular boat connections from the port of La Spezia, and the trip takes about 20-25 minutes, offering beautiful views of the coastline and the town itself as you arrive. Here is the Google Maps location of boat port in La Spezia.
• By car – the distance is about 13 km, but parking in Portovenere is limited and difficult, especially in summer, so public transport is preferable.

Top Things to See in Portovenere

Palazzata and the Historic Center

As soon as we docked, the first thing that impressed us was the “wall” of tall, colorful buildings along the town’s waterfront. We later found out that it has a name – Palazzata – the row of tall, colorful, narrow houses on the shore, which once served as a defensive line and today is one of the town’s most recognizable sights.

There are many restaurants and cafes along the seafront street, and opposite them is a beautiful marina.

To enter the historic center of the town, you pass through Porta del Borgo – the ancient gate that has remained intact since the 12th century.

The main shopping street in Portovenere is very charming, and delicious food smells from everywhere, especially pesto. Being close to Genoa, Portovenere is also famous for authentic pesto, which can be bought in dozens of places, and some small eateries serve it directly over freshly cooked pasta.

Doria Castle

Above Portovenere’s waterfront rises Doria Castle – an imposing fortress built on the hill above the historic center in 1160 by the Genoese. It offers panoramic views of the Gulf of Poets.

Byron’s Cave

At the end of the shopping street you reach one of Portovenere’s landmarks – Byron’s Cave. It is a natural cave 20 meters deep between the fortress walls and the Church of San Pietro. Its original name was “The Cave of the Harpies,” but it was renamed because it is believed that Lord Byron found inspiration here for one of his most famous poems. From here there are also absolutely phenomenal views of the Ligurian coast – beautiful blue sea and imposing high cliffs.

Church of San Pietro

Right next to Lord Byron’s Cave is the Church of San Pietro, built on the rocks above the sea and considered a symbol of Portovenere. The interior is very interesting.

Palmaria Island and Boat Trips

Unfortunately, we did not have time for another key attraction of Portovenere – Palmaria Island. It is the largest island near Portovenere and can be reached by boat in just a few minutes. It offers beautiful beaches, caves, and crystal-clear sea. Next time we will not miss it.

Support our blog

If you find this guide useful and would like to support our blog, you can use our affiliate link to Booking.com. You will get great booking options, while your booking helps us continue sharing free travel guides and practical tips for hundreds of destinations around the world.